Sunday, December 9, 2012

Tip top on top of the world

The life and times of Alex the snowboarder (cough cough splitboarder) are on hold at least until Christmas in Verbier, however the fun has definitely not stopped. Given my run of fairly serious head injuries this November rather than moving to Canmore to train for the Boardercross season I packed up and headed for Nepal. My gear including one snowboard, bindings for a splitboard (to be purchased after breaking my old one last day of the season at Bogong), hard boots, crampons, harnesses and a sturdy pair of hiking boots to wander up to Everest Base Camp (EBC) and then do a little mountain climb up Island Peak (6200m). 

With an unplanned 24hour stopover in Guangzhou, China - apparently there is this massive city of 15 million people I had never heard of - the holiday was off to a fairly predictably unpredictable start. Some sampling of the local cuisine later I was off on China Southern to arrive in Kathmandu for three hours sleep before I would fly out to start the trek. Hectic. 
Farming in the city - Guangzhou


From the hill in Guangzhou.
The trek itself was a fantastic experience. The trekking wasn't overly challenging, due to the altitude it is only possible to climb around 600m a day, meaning most days were only 3 or 4 hours. The conversations with porters and guides along the way and at tea houses very illuminating of the culture of Nepal. I was pleased to learn to sing a little in Nepali and even managed a basic conversation by the time I was leaving. I learnt many a nepali card game and the jokes about the kanchii didi (little girl big sister) playing with the porters were many. Other pleasures included meeting like minded people from many countries, the delicious dahl bat that was consumed every night and the thousands of cups of "hot ginger." Plus that piece of chocolate cake in Namche Bazaar on the way down and the last night at this bizarre Irish Pub in Lukla with 3 crazy germans were pretty fun too.

My group started with 4 able bodied tourists, one guide, one assistant guide. By the end it was just me climbing Island Peak with the wonderful Sherpa Pema from Khumjung. I could explain the joys of seeing literally the biggest mountains in the world, of losing my jacket as I put my crampons on with frozen hands at 5 am in the morning, but I feel the pictures really do explain it better.
This is a runway - Lukla (google 10 most dangerous airports in the world).
The guide, Ram, and Roshan plus my 3 other fellow group members. Charlie (centre) left with lack of sleep in Namche and poor Damo (second from right) had to be helicoptered out with his Dad Michael after reaching EBC.
Leaving Namche.
Cricket in Khumjung.
That's definitely Everest out my window from Pangboche!
Solar Power in Thukla, combustible things are rare above 4000m and the sun is strong!
Memorials to those that have died on Everest, there are literally thousands on them. 
On the way to base camp - the survivors thus far!
"Boot Skating" on glacial ice - stealing icicles for Roshan and Tetz.
At base camp with my amazing card playing buddies Tetz (left) and Roshan. Oh and these guys carried up everything too. I felt particularly slack the entire walk and would probably carry my own gear next time but I enjoyed the porters company so much it definitely made it worth having them around!
Making it to Kalapathar (5545m) for sunset with a new found friend David from San Diego.
Everest, Lhotse right (looks bigger). I'm pretty happy and a little cold here).
Yep, Everest is pretty cool...
Then after all the shenanigans up near Everest we walked down and around to approach Island Peak from Chukung. Here are some photos from the Summit and on the way down. No going up photos as we left at 2 am and it was dark and bloody cold. I managed to lose a jacket at the crampon point and my head torch wasn't working - I was the ideal climber really! However, Sherpa Pema managed to push and pull me up first on the summit for the day just as the sun was peaking over the mountains!

Unfortunately the Lens didn't open properly in the sub-zero temperatures but this gives you an idea of the sheer number of mountains that were at our eye level. AH-MAZING!
The team happy (and bloody cold) on top of the mountain, my right big toe is still a little tingly!

Apparently we weaved around these crevasses in the dark. Glad I had my Sherpa to show the way.
Ice-Axe shot for my touring buddies back home, Watkin and Jock.
Good times! After a few days in Kathmandu it was off to London to see my big brother and his fiance. I've had a great week here and am about to train and ferry to Amsterdam. Expect an update on the joys of going to slow way across the channel.